It's time to get out of the big city. We took Greenline Tour bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. It still is a big city for Nepal, but feels much, much smaller. It was a pretty drive through the countryside. We followed next to a river most of the way. The landscape was fairly rugged and many farmers had to build terraces to farm their land. The ride should have taken 7 hours and we arrived in just over 8. So not bad at all.
The bus ride was exciting, but we survived. As always, the honking! On this trip we had the bonus of tight, winding switchbacks. My favorite new driving move I learned was to have a passenger
hang on the side of the vehicle and/or hanging out of vehicles to call out where they were headed next. Because turn signals and traffic laws are for wimps!
I was really hoping that we would actually have the wifi that was advertised, but it only worked at the bus station in Kathmandu. In hindsight, I couldn't have been blogging during the
switchbacks anyway. The AC was only on for the second half of the drive, so people started to get sick.
Just over half way, we stopped for lunch at Riverside Resort. It was surprisingly good. They served a spicy yellow curry chicken dish with rice. The views were great sitting just far enough from
the road, most of the honking was drowned out by the trees and mountains. The landscape was lush.
Guess my traveling skills are improving, I actually napped on the bus. So did Brian.
The people in Pokhara were much more friendly and seemed very happy. Our cab driver we had the day we headed out was kind, but more on him in a later post. Also, the son of the owner of the
hostel where we stayed was happy and helpful. He even allowed Brian to use his personal computer to update our blog. He was a bright young man, fresh out of college where he completed studies in
computers. He is preparing to go back for his masters. He shared some personal photos of a recent trek. Also, made good recommendations on food in the area. We plan on staying at The Mountain
View again.
The Mountain View not only had great service, but clean and cheap rooms. It was $10 USD a night. It wasn't located in the heart of town, but in about 5 minutes you could be there if you wanted.
The location was nice because it was quiet. That was a welcomed change for us!
We enjoyed how the town was setup in the Lakeside area. Most hotels sat back a block or two from the lake. On the street most immediate to the lake had the shops and restaurants. So great views
for meals and from hotels.
The lake itself has a backdrop of dense mountain forest. It appeared to be a pretty large lake with many fisherman out trying to catch lunch from their thin and
barely buoyant boats. The sunsets were magical with the reflection in the water. Oranges, pinks, and purples.
Bug spray required. I apparently should have applied it to the soles of my feet. Stupid bite just below the ball of my foot. Makes walking itchy.
We had some really great food while in Pokhara. Among our favorites were spicy chicken garlic sauce, Dal Bhat, spring rolls, and schezwan chicken. Learning to tolerate the local whiskey because it's really scotch, ick!
Next chapter brings trekking in the himalayas!
Pokhara part II
During our short return to Pokhara, after hiking A.B.C., we visited a Tibetan refugee camp with a local gal we met on the trail. She often referred to it as her 'village' and considered herself
Tibetan even though her family was forced to flee in 1959, long before her birth. Pokhara has 4 camps.
It was an interesting day. We ate a home cooked meal, met her family, and learned about Tibetan culture. We visited the local cultural museum. It held many photos of Tibet, the camp, and the Dali
Lama. Also, it was informative speaking to their 99% literacy rate and importance of learning to speak Tibetan, Nepalese, and English.
We visited the carpet factory, where her people learned handicraft skills to make a living. Although often well educated, the refugee status doesn't allow for citizenship, making it very
difficult to find suitable employment. The factory was making rugs, purses, and belts the day we visited. It was a large open warehouse space with women of all ages working what appeared to be
weaving looms. The younger women worked the very intricate patterns for rugs and the older the more basic belts. Watching the young women work was hypnotic and fluid, as they quickly weaved. I
bought a fun handmade purse with Tibetan design for $3 USD.
We visited Devi's Falls, too. It was a large cravat partially filled with flowing water. From far away, it appeared the waterfall disappeared into nothingness, just the abyss of the earth. As you got closer you could see the deep, dark cut out in the rock where water would flow. Our friend mentioned the water level can change significantly, depending on the season. The rock wall did appear to have water level lines and different colored mosses. She also said there was significance to the Hindu people as a site for prayer, in a cave deep in the rock. Devi's Falls also had a wishing pool, similar to a wishing well. Toss a coin in and have it land on the rock just below the surface of the water and you would be blessed with luck and long life. If it bounced off the rock, no such luck.
Our last stop was the monastery. Words that come to mind are beautiful, bright, colorful, and textured. We saw different prayer areas each having it's own significance. Some areas had flashing colorful lights, butter sculptures, multi-patterned textiles, and beautiful statues. While other rooms had white scarves, small golden religious relics, and photos of important religious leaders. I enjoyed seeing the prayer wheels, both big and small.
This was a great opportunity that just fell into our lap. It seems the Tibetans struggle had faded into the background of my busy life. It was truly a great reminder of their culture of
compassion and hope.
